|
South side of Khan-Tengry.
 |
Day 1
Arrive in Bishkek Hotel.
Day 2 Transfer to Karkapa Base camp (1600m)
Day 3 Transfer to Acclimatization Days for rest .
Day 4 Fright to the base camp Inylchek base camp
Day 5-6 Acclimatization.
Day 7-17 Ascending on Khan-Tengri Peak.
|
Day 18 Flight
to the base camp Karkapa.
Day 19 Reserve day.
Day 20 Issyk-Kyl days for rest.
Day 21 Transfer to Bishkek Hotel |
Ascent from side Peak Khan Tengri North
Day 1 Arrive in Bishkek
Hotel.
Day 2 Transfer to KarKara Base camp (1600m).
Day 3 Ascending to 3500m.
Day 4 Fright to North Inylchek
Base camp (4000).
Day 5-6 Acclimatization.
Day 7-17 Ascending on
Khan-Tengri Peak.
Day 18 Fright to KarKara.
Day 19 Reserve day.
Day 20 Issik-Kyl.
Day 21 Bishkek.
Day 22 Return home.
|
The normal tactic used on the classical route
from the South:
 |
A) Crossing of the
South Inylchek glacier (6km), ascent of 200m to "Shubin's
stop" bivouac (4300m).
B) Along the narrow and sleep Semenov
glacier we ascend So the upper mould and setup camp2 at
the altitude of 5800m under the west column pitch. After
2 nights and 6200-6500m ascent we descend to the base camp.
|
| After a day of rest
1-2 days of ascent to the can'.pl with new baggage for high
altitude camps.It 's necessary to start early in the morning
to escape avalanches that are more probable in the afternoon.
Reach the altitude of 6300-6400m. Camp2. |
C)
Ascent 300rr and pitch camp3 under the summit at the altitude of
6700m.
D) During the day we reach the summit and descent
to the camp3. The way down goes on rocks with good ledges and on
snow and ice fields. It is recommend to hang up fixed ropes on the
most dangerous places (length about 280m).
E) Descent to camp2 and then to camp1.
F) Descent to the base camp. |
Ascent of Lenin Peak.
Day 1. Arrival in Bishkek. Flight to Osh town. Hotel.
Day 2. Transfer Osh - Achik-Tash valley (270 km 8 hours)
Base camp (3600 m). Tents.
Day 3. Preparation for the route to high-mountains zone.
BC. Day 4. Trekking to the Camp 1 (4200 m) Tents.
Days 5-16. Ascent to Lenin peak 71 34 m.
Day 17. Return to the BC.
Day 18. Rest day. BC.
Day 19. Transfer to Osh. Hotel.
Day 20. Flight to Bishkek. Hotel.
Day 21. Departure from Bishkek.
|
Terms for climbers: Climbers must be healthy, physically
trained and experienced according to their program. Climbers en
route use their own equipment arid outfit, tents, and insurance.
Habitual food is recommended while ascending. For additional payment:
guides, porters, flight over the region by helicop- ter, additional
excursions, video films, antiques, souvenirs, etc.Majestic Peak
Lenin is situated in the Zaiaiskij Range and is considered one of
the easier 7000 meter peaks which can be climbed from the north
without much special training and high altitude climbing experience.
The best time of the year is between 20th of June and 21st of August.
Expedition-style ascent; weather and conditions on the mountain
may prevent summit success. Conditions: participants ascend the
mountain without assistance above base camp looking after their
own safety and pitching higher camps. They must bring their own
personal, 1st aid, climbing equipment as well as altitude tents,
food. Services:"Asia Experience guide " organizes access formalities
and provides: transport from Bishkek via Osh to base camp; accommodation
and food in the towns; tents and food at base and advance base camp
only. For additional payment: Helicopter support, local guides (guiding,
pitching camps, cooking etc. above advance base camp), pack horses
and porters. |